the African book launch party

Last night we held the book launch and fund raiser here in Windhoek--the official reason I'm in Namibia for this trip. It was fabulous--held at a newly renovated warehouse type building that used to be a brewery. It was very cool.

We started the evening with a "meet and greet" in an outdoor patio area with champagne and hugs. I was surprised at how many people came-over 200!

Then we moved into the main area where we were highly entertained by a man who is well known here in Namibia--Kevin Leo--who is an opera star but also sings contemporary songs. He has an amazing voice and is so funny, too. Lots of the evening's activities were in Afrikaans, but Marieta sat by me and translated when I asked.

We had a four-course meal, and in between courses, Kevin would sing, Jo spoke, and then I spoke. Scary--speaking in front of 200 people I didn't know who were expected an author-type. I was a great evening. I even quoted Robert Frost's poem "The Road Not Taken" because Marieta has definitely "the road less traveled by--making all the difference, not just for her and the animals, but for all the people she's touch (like me!) with her inspirational life and work.

Then we had an auction and--you won't believe this--someone bid for a signed copy of my book and paid--are you ready for this?--500 American dollars. I know the person just wanted to donate the money to Harnas, but to do it in the name of the book was astounding to me. Marieta and I just looked at each other while our eyes got bigger and bigger with each bid. And the money will go to the animals--which makes it all the sweeter.

Kevin sang some more--appropriately "I did it my way." Then we moved into the next room where people could bid on a few more items, nibble on some sweets, and buy a book and get it signed by Marieta and me. What a night!

But today we go to Harnas where my wonderful animals await me. I cannot wait to see all my "babies." I've had to prioritize which ones I'll see first. And Marieta says there are two new baboon babies that need my love! Yippee!

Here Again

Well, I'm here! After an amazingly long flight from NYC to Johannesburg, South Africa (almost 16 hours on one flight), I got off the plane and walked down the stairs to a crystal blue sky and 85 degrees. Oh yeah. It's summer in Africa. My pasty white skin started prickling with sunburn almost immediately, so I slathered on the sunscreen. But how wonderful to find summer on the other side of the world.

I'm staying in the capital city of Windhoek for a few days for the book launch party/fund raiser, so I'm at a small guesthouse called Uzuri--which already has made me feel at home with two cats and two dogs wandering through my room at all times. I was met at the Windhoek airport (no one has ever met me at that airport before!) by my friends from Munich, Cornelia and Willi, and Marieta's daughter-in-law Jo. Hugs hugs hugs! Jo talked a mile a minute (as she does) all the way into town, getting me caught up on the plans for tomorrow night's party and family news. I haven't seen Marieta yet because she always takes her first day in town to do primping things like hair and nails. (I find it both amazing and inspiring that along with taking care of 400 animals, Marieta always finds time to take care of herself, too! Oprah would be proud of this woman.)

This afternoon I've relaxed, taken a nap, done a bit of swimming in the pool, and unpacked a bit. Tonight we're all meeting at the famous restaurant here in town, Joe's Beerhouse.

I've been under such a strain at home for the past few months--both personally and professionally--that this feels like the first time I can truly take a deep deep breath. As usual, the burdens of life are lessened for me here in Namibia. I'm hoping and planning on both Namibia and Harnas to work their magic on me again.

The internet is a bit iffy at the guesthouse, so I'm not going to download any pictures today. But look for some the next time I write!

Every time I leave Harnas, I try to have the next time I'll go in my mind. This keeps me from crying and whining and generally making a spectacle of myself as they drag me out of the gate and force me on an airplane.

So when I left at the end of March, I knew I would be returning in December for the book launch/fund raiser on December 4th. I leave tomorrow at 6:00 a.m. (don't even ASK what time I'm heading to the airport! It's obscene!) I plan on keeping this blog while I'm there as often as power and internet access allows. I hope you'll follow me and learn more about Harnas.

(This is the spot where I shamelessly remind you that my book tells even MORE about Harnas and would make a lovely Christmas gift for someone you love--even if that person is yourself!)

So here we go again! See you next on the other side of the world!

Buy the Book!

Hey Fellow Bloggers, The book about Harnas and Marieta is finally out. It's been a great ride to get here and I'm so excited that people will finally hear the whole story about this wonderful place and amazing woman.

If you want to buy it, you can go to one of the following places:

Amazon

Barnes & Noble

National Geographic Books

And, of course, it's available at most bookstores (If it isn't, ask for it so they'll order it!).

Remember that half my profits go back to Harnas, so you can do something good for the animals just by buying the book. (And don't forget Christmas presents!)

And check out my Facebook page and also my blog on GoodReads

My Final Blog

"Oh, I'm on my way, I know I am, somewhere not so far from here," begins Cat Stevens' "Sitting," one of my all-time favorite songs.


In some ways, the past months have gone fast, but there are times when I find it hard to remember the feeling of home. I guess that means it's time to head back and resume what a lot of people would call "real life."


But not before I say a few final words--and offer a few thanks, because Cat's song goes on to say "Sitting on my own--not by myself. Everybody's here with me." In truth, I've never felt alone on this trip. Writing this blog has been an enlightening experience. It's helped me focus on details, cement memories, and analyze my feelings--and feel close to the people I care about.

Sometimes, though, I admit it felt like I was writing to the air. Thank goodness for Courtney, Joanne, and Cornelia--my most consistent comment-ers. You three women tethered me to an audience, reminding me people were out there.


And Doug--who located me on Google Earth wherever I went--you were my best email pen pal. It made me feel secure to know someone knew exactly where I was on the planet--whether it was Otjewarango, Chiang Mai, or the Kinabatongan River.

Fred, my anchor--there aren't many men who would hold down the fort (and the dogs) while his crazy partner goes cavorting around the world. I can't thank you enough.


During the past 20 years or so, I've tried to live by a certain creed: that is, when I get to the end of my life, I want to be able to say "Remember when . . . " not "I wish I had . . . " This trip has gone a long way in furthering that belief, and although I probably won't leave this life with a truckload of money, I will go with a head full of amazing memories--including the new and old friends I've spent time with on trips like this.


What can you say about a friend like Amy, who travels to the far side of the world just to be "along for the ride"? You rock, Girl.


And Randall, my brother, who takes time out from Saving The World For Democracy to zip through the rainforest canopy--never once mocking my inability to stop screaming like a little girl.


Traveling alone mostly, though, pushes me into interacting with people I wouldn't otherwise meet, and my life has been so enriched by both these fleeting and lasting encounters in airports, on beaches, on trails, or just sitting around petting a lion.

At the core of this whole adventure, though, are the animals. I've had experiences and encounters whose significances I can't adequately express. For me, the creatures of the world are my best friends, my therapy, and my hope. I wanted to have that faith reassured and renewed on this trip, and I've been rewarded more than I dared dream.


Finally, Cat's song reminds me that "Life is like a maze of doors, and they all open from the side you're on." It's up to each of us--no one else--to make life wonderful and interesting. So put your hand on the doorknob and turn . . . .

Back from Baco

Just got back from my last wildlife adventure (on this trip). Jodi and I went to Bako National Park for a night. It's a bit run down--the cabins were definitely rustic, but they did have a fan. It was still a sweat-fest, though, as most things are in Borneo.

It's worth it to rough it, though, because the wildlife is up close and personal, especially the macaque monkeys. They get aggressive around the cafeteria and if you stop paying attention, they'll snatch your food. And believe me, they're fast. There were six people sitting at a table in the middle of the porch, and one monkey sneaked up, jumped on a table, and grabbed a cookie out of a package before the people even knew he was there.

Another one kept jumping up on the railing behind my head and trying for one of my chips. I had to hunker down over the bag to keep him from grabbing everything I had.

It also must have been their equivalent of spring because there were babies babies everywhere. It seemed all the females were carrying newborns--and I mean young. If I got too close (which, of course, I did many times--it's ME, after all), the mothers would bare their sharp little canines at me so I'd back away. But I still managed to get one good shot of this brave little guy that got away from his mother for awhile.

Besides the macaques, the park has proboscis monkeys--those shy and bizarre monkeys that have the big noses. They hang out in the upper branches most of the time, but they move as a group, so if you see one jumping from tree to tree, you're bound to see lots more.

I made this film on Wednesday night. You can't see their beautiful gold color (except sort of in the 2nd tree), but their flight from tree to tree was too stunning not to show you. These are rare monkeys, folks, and you don't find them at your average zoo. The male leader makes this sort of honking sound through his enormous nose to communicate with his troop. Weird and wonderful.



And this morning, I finally saw the deadly but beautiful pit viper, which was hanging around a park sign. After all of us took pictures, the park ranger moved the snake to a more remote location. I'm really glad I saw it--and I know my friend Amy is really glad she had already gone home when I did.

Look for one more blog--probably on Saturday.

Sarawak Cultural Village

Yesterday (Sunday) I took a shuttle to the Sarawak Cultural Village. It's sort of a living museum, showing how the various tribes here in Borneo live, eat, hunt, and celebrate. It's a bit touristy (especially after living the real thing in the longhouse earlier this week), but I was ready for touristy. I wanted to see the flashy outfits, wild dances, and hear the pounding drums.

The first part of the day I walked around visitinig the various kinds of houses built to show the varieties of communities depending on locale and lifestyle--mountain, river, farming, nomadic, etc. I might mention that they were all bigger, cleaner, more airy, and more inviting than the actual place I visited, but they were still very interesting.

The stairs and bridges were really fascinating. Here's a bridge from the Bidayuh tribe made from bamboo. I crossed it--but it felt precarious every second.

At each house people from the various tribes awaited to demonstrate skills, crafts, and so on--blowpipe hunting, weaving, cooking, woodworking, music. The things these people can do with so little to work with is quite amazing. I was especially impressed with the guy who did the blowpipe. His misses were few and far between. I wouldn't want him aiming that thing at me.

After walking around and sweating for a good part of the day--with several trips into the gift shop to cool down in its air-conditioned bliss--the main attraction of the day occurred: the dancing theater. Yes, it was touristy, but the costumes, music, and dances were quite astounding.

The man in this video is lifting a 20 kg weight with his teeth--that's about 44 pounds. It exemplifies his strength as a warrior (and having a good dentist, to boot).






No animals today--this is for my anthropological friends who often ask me more about the native culture of the country I'm in. (All right--to be fair, there was this kitten in the Chinese house that I played with for a good 15 minutes, but you can't expect me to go totally against my nature for a whole day).

I have two free days here in Kuching before we leave for Bako National Park, so I'll do some cultural stuff here--mainly shopping (think of it as hunting and gathering). If there's anything anyone craves from Borneo, now is the time to tell me.